banner ad
 

Quinte Fishing

Fishing Reports for the Bay of Quinte
It is currently Thu Nov 21, 2024 8:48 pm


All times are UTC - 5 hours





Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2002 12:27 pm 
Offline
Walleye Catcher
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2002 4:19 am
Posts: 401
Location: Ottawa
I just thought that for the benefit of those who would like to do the basic winterizing routine to ther boat when the time comes[late december??], we should share what we all do to our rigs for the winter lay-up.
I'll start things off.
First a thorough cleaning of the boat, motor, trailer. Add fuel stabilizer to a full gas tank[prevents condensation forming in fuel tank]. Run engine in lake/river or with hose attached to ear muffs on lower unit to draw fuel mixture into engine. Run for about 5 minutes, then disconnect fuel line and begin to spray fogging oil slowly[don't kill engine]. When it has run out of fuel pull the fuel line and sparkplugs.Thoroughly spray fogging oil in each cylinder. replace plugs but NOT the wires. Crank the engine a few turns to distribute the oil on the cylinder walls. Reconnect plug wires and fuel line. This is the time to pull the propeller and lube it checking for fishing line. Now you can drain the lower unit, make sure the motor is as close to vertical as possible. There are usually three screws to remove. There may be a few filings attached to the bottom screw, this is okay it may be magnetic. If you have not allredy purchased a small pump with a hose and threaded connection this will make the job easy[about $15any marine store]. Check the colour of the fluid. It should be nearly clear, NOT milky -this indicates moisture in the lower unit. The rubber seals on the drain srews could be failing or a propeller shaft seal[see mechanic]. If all is well Use the finger pump I mentioned filled with the appropriate type of lower unit lube. Fill ONLY from the bottom screw this will expell any air trapped in the lower unit. When the lube spills out of one of the upper vent holes replace one screw. Keep pumping till it flows from the other and replace that screw. The last screw will be a little messy, but not too much as the lube is thick and does not flow fast. Remove the pump hose from the lower screw hole and be ready to replace the last screw. All that is left is to grease all fittings and the lube the linkages in the motor head. One over looked part is the starter pinion gear. It is energized when you crank the engine to turn over the motor. Grease this part or the shaft it rides on so it will not stick. I had this happen[it would actually stay partly engaged to the flywheel and made the most terrible noise. I only use white lithium grease-water won't effect it.
Vacuum out the boat check screws and fittings. Remove batteries and charge. Store in the coolest part of your basement. Ckeck each month charge if necessary during the winter.
The last part is the trailer. Place it on stands So the wheels are off the ground. If you have a galvanized trailer [no paint] you are done. If it is painted spray it with wd40. This will prevent any rusting during the winter from the stone chips etc. I was amazed what a difference this made from one winter to the next.
This whole process shouldn't take more than 90 minutes if you have done it before. This will also save you a lot of money and give you the satisfaction of a job well done!....Larry


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2002 6:23 pm 
that was excellent exactly what I do i cant stress the importance of wd40 on the trailer I do the exact same procedure. When i put my trailer on jacks ($25 each canadian tire) make sure that they are under the leaf or behind the rear wheels I add a 2x4x4 just for that added stability. If you have a compressor a real good idea is to blow out your bilge pump and live well lines ( I have 2 wells) so it takes some time if you don't have a compressor rv stores have fittings for this and all you do is screw the fitting in and take it to any gas station with an air pump I usually get 1/2 gallon out of my lines. wipe the interior of your live well check all the pumps tighten any fittings around these pumps. I also disconect my electronics I have a gps 2 fish finders I spray a qtip with wd40 and wipe the connections> I also remove my prop to my trolling motor check it and grease it if needed. The only other thing and I think that this is the most important thing to do I can't stress it enough once your done this get yourself a beer brave the cold and sit there thinking about the big one that got a way smile and go face the wife and kids for the winter


Top
  
 
 Post subject: Winterizing Boat
PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2002 7:43 pm 
Offline
Walleye Wisdom
User avatar

Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 7:41 pm
Posts: 789
Location: Belleville Ontario
Gentlemen, :idea:

An alternate to using air to blow out plumbing: I have two
livewells and two baitwells to deal with. I run RV antifreeze
though the system until all water is expelled. Then I drain
the wells of the RV antifreeze.

If you have any chance of squirrels or mice entering your boat,
spread a box of moth balls all over the boat. That's unless you
hate the smell of the moth balls. It stays with the boat for weeks
after removing them.

BATMAN


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2002 12:56 am 
Offline
Goby

Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2002 7:14 pm
Posts: 3
Location: Pa.
My idea of winterizing, checking the lower unit, adding new gear oil,
pull boat into heated garage, vacuum the inside, clean seats and
unhook the batteries and hook-up the trickle charger. Then wait till
spring. :roll:


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2002 4:41 pm 
Offline
Goby

Joined: Mon Nov 11, 2002 12:58 am
Posts: 1
I have an 8 hp Honda which I had problems with over winter last year. For some reason the gas carmelized (?) in the carb and it wouldn't start. Therefore needed someone to take it apart and loosen up all the components. Apparently it's hard to drain the carb completely so it may occur again this year. Any thoughts? Thanks.

SG


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: gas
PostPosted: Mon Nov 11, 2002 5:36 pm 
Offline
Walleye Catcher
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 17, 2002 4:19 am
Posts: 401
Location: Ottawa
Hi Sean
What you had was a classic case of bad fuel left in an engine.
What you need to do is put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and run it so the treated fuel gets into the carburetor. Run the engine for at least 5 minutes. Then while the engine is still running remove the fuel line from the engine. After a couple of minutes the engine will stall. At this point you have run the maximum amount of gas out of the engine. Even if there is a trace amount of fuel left in the engine fuel system you have all ready treated it so there will be no problems. The stabilizer is avaiable from marine stores or canadian tire etc. The fuel you have left over is treated-in your case with the Honda, it is straight gas. My merc is a 2- stroke. I store all my power equipment this way-with full fuel tanks to prevent condensation forming over winter. I have been doing it for over 25 years this way!
Take care...Larry


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Thanks for the tips
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:37 pm 
HB Larry:

Thanks for the info on the gas (re Honda). I'll try it this year and see how it goes.

SG

:D


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2002 9:43 am 
Offline
Perch
User avatar

Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 9:42 pm
Posts: 38
Great post --will try the wd40 on the trailer this year
:)

_________________
---<{{{><.Harry


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 


All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 97 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  


Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group