To weld or not to weld

Papa fishing · **Joined:** Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:42 pm **Posts:** 131

Hi guys I have a Princecraft 196 super pro and I'm replacing the floor in it and I don't want to put carpet back in. My options are marine plywood with a painted on non skid surface or checker plate aluminium. If I go with aluminium I can weld it that's not the issue but do I ?? Does the floor flex with the boat? The floor from factory is currently 5 individual pieces of 3/4 ply with carpet and foam undernieth. What would you do? Fyi carpet sucks the boat is a 1997 and if it wasn't for the carpet the floor would still be ok in my opinion. Any help would be great!

Also my cost wood and paints and slip resistant surface $700
Aluminium $550 not invluding welding welding would be another $50 bucks

Thanks

catcher · **Joined:** Fri Dec 31, 2004 1:12 pm **Posts:** 393

I know what ya mean , I had a princecraft with carpet and I said never again will I get a boat with a carpeted floor.. Lol currently I have vinyl on the floor of my Lund and in comparison it is way easier to clean . I would find the checker board aluminum will be hard on the bare feet and also hard on the knees . I would also worry about it rattling after a few outings . Some things to think about anyway .

GOT2FSH · **Posted:** Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:35 pm

Could always fasten with self tapping stainless screws, or rivets if you're worried about too much rigidity

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

fireball · **Posted:** Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:18 pm

Sounds like adding aluminum will be permanent vs wood that will need to be replaced again, but gives you more options done the road.
Is the foam there for flotation ? if boat is full of water ? i would leave it.

I was told this years ago and still go by it. "next time you go in a plane look out the window at the wings how are they attached"
(rivets is the answer)

D-wayne · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:13 am

After seeing the "aircraft" reference I just have to chirp in.
I will avoid emotions by sticking with point form.
1. All skin panels on AC are riveted as they are scheduled to be removed a number of times though out its scheduled life span
2. All rivits are inspected on a regular schedule and as the years go by they are regularly repaired and or replaced with oversized rivits if structure point has been worn
3. the body of the AC are pressurized by forcing a lot of air into the plane and a lot of the air escapes from rivits, good way to see weak rivits that need to be repaired
4. The wings are fuel tanks that are sealed from the inside. They are checked often for leaks from rivets that need repair
I hope that this gives you an insight into the rivets of aircraft. To wrap it up aircraft use rivets for maintenance abilities. Like most craft the rivets are typically worry free until the craft gets put through a few rough runs. Then the flexibility of the craft works many rivets loose.

Your option of welding the floor solid sent my mind going.
If you ever need to get in to repare the hull then you'll have quite the job. It would create a lot of damage just to remove the floor. Panels identical to the wood boards screwed in to the existing holes would keep the craft in line with the flexibility that was designed into it.
Good luck with the project
If you do weld please keep in mind the heat transfer of aluminum and guard the wiring foam and fuel tank.

Canadian Air Force '85-'92
413 Search&Rescue '92-'93

adventure · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 9:05 am

I am in a similar position as you and debating redoing the floors on my Princecraft this year as well. My thoughts are to replace with the marine grade plywood and stainless screws as original. This allows removal if the gas tank below needs servicing and provides additional flotation. Note, the gas tank being there would be a concern for welding as well.

Like catcher said, the floor in his Lund is very nice and I was going to see if I could find a similar type skin and glue them to the plywood in place of carpet.

pickerel killer · **Joined:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:28 pm **Posts:** 648

I would stick to the ply wood!!! Summer days in bare feet you won't even be able to stand on your checker plate Aluminum it will get so hot!

Dirt · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 12:40 pm

go with wood, if you weld on the aluminum hull , you will have a heat affected zone around the weld , without proper heat-treating this will lead to cracking and eventual failure of the weld and possibly the hull. stay away from welding if you can.

mblaney · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:31 pm

Wow! I am half way done putting aluminum checker in my 19' Alumacraft. I went with 1/8 aluminum diamond plate and using rivets (Pop type). To install my seat bases I will install Rivet Nuts (they install into a blind hole and expand) and stainless bolts. I did a lot of research on this project and decided that the aluminum was the best investment of my time... don't ask about the cost of the aluminum though.

Here are some current pictures as of this post

Attachment:

1 Dissassembly (Medium).jpg

Attachment:

2 Dissassembly (Medium).jpg

Attachment:

3 New floor (Medium).jpg

Attachment:

4 consols back in (Medium).jpg

I have the rest of the aluminum in the back of my truck as I type this; hope to have it finished this weekend.

To install it I put a bead of caulking over each rib, laid the panel in it and let it dry. I then installed heavy duty pop rivets.

My plan is to install the aluminum and I will do a few things to finish it.
1. etch the aluminum to remove the shine. I will test this (probably on my trip to Perfect Vue) to see if a natural finish is tolerable.
2. If the natural finish is not acceptable (slippery or too bright / hot) then I will etch and prime, paint with a non-slip coating.
3. I will be installing a snap-in carpet intended for family tubing / skiiing etc.

I am hoping that the natural finish will be good enough for fishing-trawler use and that the removable carpet will make it a comfortable family boat.

I will have the boat at Perfect Vue on May 10 - 13th. I will post some more pics as I progress and answer any questions.

Cheers,
Mike

mblaney · **Posted:** Wed Apr 15, 2015 3:12 pm

Another comment... I flip flopped between the diamond plate and flat aluminum. If I was starting over again I would probably use flat aluminum (1/8), cut the panels to size, and then glue marine vinyl flooring to the sheets. It would be very important to wrap the edges so the vinyl would not shrink and pull away. There are nice rivet washer type things (prince craft uses them) that help keep rivets from cutting into the vinyl.

Was I you (OP), use flat plate and wrap in vinyl. I think this would be the easiest and most cost effective solution.

You might want to get started, walleye season is coming fast!

pickerel killer · **Joined:** Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:28 pm **Posts:** 648

Looks good man!! i don't think you will have any problems. Like you said, fish it a few times and test it out before you change anything.

Papa fishing · **Joined:** Tue Dec 24, 2013 12:42 pm **Posts:** 131

First I have to say thanks for all of the advice. Second wow that floor looks awesome bud and I hope mine looks that good. I'm going to use stainless rivets and stay away from welding as you guys said serviceability of the tank etc is important. I'm going to use checker plate being I fish and not a lot of play just fishing so the heat on my feet will feel great next December lol, if I find the heat or shine unbarrible I'll put a snap in carpet or sorts in as suggested. I bought 2 checker plate aluminium 24 inch boxes/coolers from Canadian tire and I'm going to mount them in on the sides of the boat behind my new suspension seats to open up the center of the boat and give me storage and a perm infant cooler on board. I'll get you guys some pictures when it's done. Thanks for everything fellas

mblaney · **Posted:** Thu Apr 16, 2015 6:30 am

One thing to keep in mind... when you remove 3/4 plywood and replace with 1/8 aluminum you will be lowering everything by almost 1/2 inch (yes I can do fractions :lol:

)... If you look at the bow pictures of my boat you can see that I gasketed the base of the livewell and seat structures; this was to help restore the original height relative to the top of the gunwale. You will either have to resize these parts or keep them at close to the same height.

For the consoles, I will be rebuilding the dashboard plastic crap (Alumacraft of this generation are known to have crappy dashes and windshields). I cut the plastic down to allow the bases to fit flush. The rear half will not be a problem for me with respect to the lower floor.

I would also suggest starting with aluminum rivets. Aluminum rivets will be a lot easier to install and remove if you have to. Trying to drill out a stainless rivet in soft aluminum is a PITA.

West Lake Willows · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:03 am

For what it's worth I have an aluminum checker plate deck. Yes it can get hot on bare feet the odd day in July, but it really isn't that bad. I usually just spray it down. It is really pretty rare that I have to do that. Those days are just hot on the water anyway so the deck isn't an inconvenience. The benefits far out way the negatives. It is a very low maintenance and durable deck option.

I wouldn't have it any other way.

Scott

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thedrifter · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:01 am

I guess its to late I just read your topic, But for anyone else reading there is a roofing product that comes in lots of colours and patterns it is a pvc vinyl it glues down lasts forever prity much indestructible. We have even put it down on gradge floors. soft on the feet easy o clean durable.

HOME	Bait&Tackle	Bed&Breakfast	Boat Rentals	Campgrounds	Contact Us
Cottage Rentals	Guides/Fishing Charters	Hotels/Motels	Hunting Supplies	Ice Huts/Ice Guides	Marinas
Outfitters	QUINTE FISHING SERIES	Resorts	Tourism	Trailer Parks	Launches

Quinte Fishing

To weld or not to weld

Who is online