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Quinte Fishing

Fishing Reports for the Bay of Quinte
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 9:31 am 
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Walleye Catcher

Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:30 pm
Posts: 451
Finally picked up my new 1875 ProV with cisco 48" track down the gunnels. when put up my mag 10's on the gunnel it flexes like crazy! Anyone out there with wide lund gunnels have any tips on reducing the flex ? I ordered aluminum backing plates from cisco, but i don't think they are going to solve the issue. I contacted cisco but they said it is the way lund designs their gunnels and haven't seen any issues with the proV's. Still, i wince when i look at the 16# balls off them.

Anyone else in this same position and have some insight on what they did if anything to reduce gunnel flex ?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 12:34 pm 
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Walleye Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:44 am
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Location: Central ,NY
You could put ball snubbers on your weights

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Baitfish

Joined: Wed Apr 11, 2018 4:11 pm
Posts: 23
Where are you located?
I may be able to help.
I use the the factory Lund downrigger mounts and have extras.

I’ll try to PM you


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:02 pm 
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Walleye Fingerling

Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:04 pm
Posts: 72
TheLandshark wrote:
You could put ball snubbers on your weights


Landshark, sorry for jumping on the thread, but how do cannonball snubbers reduce the torque? Just wondering as it may assist my setup, in addition to the OP’s! Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:24 pm 
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Walleye Master
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If you know what a dipsy snubber is, it's similar to that. The energy and flex will be transfered to that instead of your gunnel.

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/geekzilla/product/CWR-370/

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:27 pm 
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Walleye Master
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Location: Central ,NY
It's definitely not going to fix the entire program but it will definitely relieve stress in the gunnel

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 4:18 am 
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Walleye Fingerling

Joined: Fri Oct 18, 2013 9:04 pm
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Thanks! Good to know!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:28 am 
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Walleye Catcher

Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:30 pm
Posts: 451
TheLandshark wrote:
If you know what a dipsy snubber is, it's similar to that. The energy and flex will be transfered to that instead of your gunnel.

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/geekzilla/product/CWR-370/


thanks Landshark, i picked up a couple of these to try out. Lots of flex on ProV gunnels !


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:41 am 
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Walleye Master
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I have same issue on my Starcraft. We used back bracing from underneath but still lots of flex. Running the riggers at 45 degree helps a lot and has been great for 3 years.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:07 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:32 pm
Posts: 144
Is there any way to install an X brace or braces under the gunnel and directly below the rigger mounts? Similar to the cross bracing between floor joists.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:17 am 
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Walleye Catcher

Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 6:07 pm
Posts: 487
Location: colborne
I use a light weight angle from one rigger to the other ,I use the corner bolt of each rigger to mount the angle [steel].I did this as i thought the rigger was going to tear the side off my boat lol, good luck.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 5:48 am 
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Walleye Catcher

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staring at this... i just can't get over the flex on this thing. I foresee my mag 10 stx-ts riggers overboard at some point.

Does anyone know of a resource in the area that can have a look at this thing and possibly fix/brace it ?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:06 am 
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Walleye Angler

Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:14 am
Posts: 387
If there is that much flex I think even with backing you may eventually run into metal problems. Could you do something like mounting Scotty mounting plates on your gunnels then mounting a board between the mounting plates and your riggers just inside the gunnels.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:36 am 
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Walleye Catcher

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horsehunter wrote:
If there is that much flex I think even with backing you may eventually run into metal problems. Could you do something like mounting Scotty mounting plates on your gunnels then mounting a board between the mounting plates and your riggers just inside the gunnels.


I thought about that... trying to keep the cisco rails on the boat and sort it out around that if possible. The underside of the gunnel is 1/2" plywood, but it doesn't go side to side all the way. it is 1" or so from each side. I think this is where the flex is coming from, so using mounting plates underneath is not going to help anything... stumped on why lund designed it this way !?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:26 am 
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Walleye Angler

Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:14 am
Posts: 387
biff wrote:
horsehunter wrote:
If there is that much flex I think even with backing you may eventually run into metal problems. Could you do something like mounting Scotty mounting plates on your gunnels then mounting a board between the mounting plates and your riggers just inside the gunnels.


I thought about that... trying to keep the cisco rails on the boat and sort it out around that if possible. The underside of the gunnel is 1/2" plywood, but it doesn't go side to side all the way. it is 1" or so from each side. I think this is where the flex is coming from, so using mounting plates underneath is not going to help anything... stumped on why lund designed it this way !?


The things we neglect to consider when buying a boat.

There must be something that would fit in your cisco tracks that would allow mounting a board between them if the tracks go back far enough not to take up too much cockpit. A local fabricator could make something maybe with a nice piece of aluminum channel between them . My downrigger bases are mounted behind my tracks.
The gunnels on the later Tyee's are braced every 16 inches to eliminate flex when mounting toys.


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