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Quinte Fishing

Fishing Reports for the Bay of Quinte
It is currently Thu Nov 28, 2024 11:05 am


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:01 am 
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Walleye Fingerling

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:36 am
Posts: 72
All, I wanted to post some tips on triggering stubborn walleye. There has been lots of grousing about the lack of fish being caught this year. Most of you know there are a tremendous number of tiny perch this year and possibly large numbers of baitfish. This alone could explain why fish just don't want to bite easily. My personal experience albeit limited is that there are lots of walleye down there, but very difficult to trigger. Here are some tips for difficult fish:

1) Use a swivel - this keeps the line from twisting too much. I use braid connected by a swivel to 2 to 3 foot section of mono or fluoro. I use 15#. If you ever watch a spoon after jigging for awhile underwater, without a swivel, it will spin for ever. I don't think walleye like that. If you don't pause long enough, it will never stop spinning and you will NOT catch a fish when they are turned off.

2) BOQ is huge - you have to call the fish in. I personally use two or three very large "rips". A rip is where I violently pull the bait up as much as 3 to 5 feet and let it flutter back. Follow the calling process with a long pause, keeping the bait separated from the bottom on your graph, so you can see if fish move in under it after you stop the calling sequence. Note that the calling sequence will often result in a strike from a fish that you NEVER see on the graph. Especially with jigging raps and flutter spoons, that shoot of to the side, they will bit it when it comes right to them, or they will rush in and bite it when it stops at the bottom.

3) Another calling technique is to "pound" the bottom. This requires a slab spoon or heavy jigging rap. When you rip the bait, make sure you have enough line out so that the bait crashes into the bottom and stirs up silt and makes noise. I do this two or three times and then lift the bait 1.5 feet of the bottom and pause it while looking for fish.

3) Learn to recognize what a walleye looks like on the depth finder. It is usually a solid mark right on the bottom that will just suddenly appear, or will show up after you have executed your "calling sequence." It will rarely follow your bait up. In contrast, perch tend to flicker in and out and move up and down with your bait, nipping at often. Most of the people I respect will tell you to move if you have lots of little perch where you are fishing.

4) Cat and mouse - this is the most popular suggestion on youtube videos regarding BOQ - when you see the "mark/walleye" move under your bait, lift the bait slowly while GENTLY shaking it. If the fish is hot, or "flyer" as you hear them called, the fish will move up with the bait. The higher get the walleye to go, the more likely it will strike. If the fish drops back down, drop back with it and try again. Continuing to pull the bait up and away from the fish. If the fish leaves, go back to your calling sequence. It will often return.

5) Short lift and drop - this is what I see most BOQ anglers doing all day. They lift the bait 1/2 to 1.5 feet. Most do it relatively slowly. This will trigger fish. The most important thing is to hold the bait still for at least five seconds every 2 or 3 lifts. This pause is often when they bite.

6) Shake it - this is a technique where you shake the rod tip side to side, or up and down just a few inches. This makes the bait literally wiggle up and down or vibrate pretty fast. Always pause at intervals after shaking.

7) Nod it - this is a very subtle technique where all you do is make the bait quiver. Some people execute this by just tapping the rod with a finger, flicking the line, or squeezing the rod handle. Nothing else.

8) Combinations - I personally mix all of these. I start with the call (violent rips of the bait), followed by a pause of five seconds or so with the bait 1.5 feet of the bottom (so I can see if a walleye moves in), then I do a slow lift while shaking the bait, stopping at 1 foot intervals until I am 3 feet of the bottom. Then I drop it 1 foot. Hold/pause. Drop it another 1 foot. Hold/pause. Drop it another foot. Hold/pause. Then I do some short 1 foot lift and drops. Nod it. And then I start all over, or mix these up. Sometimes to call the fish, I will pound the bottom the next sequence. Don't forget the hold/pause. This is what most anglers forget, especially when they see a fish move in. They get too excited and often work the bait too violently. By the same token, the walleye will lose interest if you don't move the bait now and then.

9) Practice all of these techniques in clear water just under your hole, so you can see what they look like (or go the local pool). You can also watch youtube videos of many of these. Try to be intentional about your jigging, so you can remember what you were doing when you called the fish in, and what you were doing when it hit!

10) Consider two-fisting it - this is where you fish two rods at once, usually with the holes 3 feet apart. Drill a hole for your transducer mid-way between the two and slightly further away from you. I always two-fist it. 90% of the time, I will have a spoon in my left hand and a jigging rap in my right. I usually fish these about 6" difference of the bottom, so I can figure out which mark is which on the graph. I mix up my jigging, so I usually have one of the two either paused, or subtle. This is a difficult technique at first. The fish will often show a marked preference for the left hand bait or the right hand bait.

11) Dead-sticking, or the Judas rig - This is where you fish one rod with what ever you like and setup a second rod with a curly tail jig or plain and hook a minnow through the back. Set that rig 1 foot of the bottom with the rod in a holder or on a bucket (this is called dead-sticking or a the Judas technique). Concentrate on your jigging rod, only occasionally wiggling the other rod. Bites will be just the rod tip bending down on the dead-stick rod. The advantage of dead-sticking is that if they want super subtle, it's available. Plus it takes almost no concentration or additional effort. Change your minnow frequently so it is alive and wiggling when a walleye comes through.

12) Lures - I put them in just a few categories. Slab spoons (thick and heavy), flutter spoons (thin and long), jigging raps, lipless rattle baits and blade baits. If you are on a budget, just get a couple of jigging raps, a couple of flutter spoons, and a couple of slab spoons. Plain silver (sunny days) and plain gold (cloudy days) are good choices to start out. If you are fishing with other people, make sure everyone tries different baits and colors.

13) Sweeten the pot - this may be one of the most important points. I NEVER fish a lure without bait (the only exception is lipless rattle baits and blade baits - which I only go to rarely). There is lots of argument about using minnow heads vs. the whole minnows, and how to hook them on. My feeling is that you should experiment. If you are getting minnows pulled off your hooks (could be perch) go to just minnow heads. I have fished Erie where they put a minnow on every single hook point. That means for a spoon you have three minnows on the bait. For a jigging rap, you have FIVE! Sounds crazy, but it works. They call it the meat-wagon. It looks like an octopus under the water.

14) Go early and stay late, go often - BOQ often has an extremely short bite window. Fifteen minutes some days. Usually morning and evening only. If there is no snow cover and it is sunny, it is rare to catch a fish during the day.

15) Go back to where you caught fish, or saw others.

16) Stay away from other anglers when the bite is off. 20 yards minimum and 1/4 mile is better.

17) Keep going back and keep experimenting. Good luck and turn the big girls loose.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:11 am 
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Walleye Wisdom

Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:53 pm
Posts: 842
Lots of work here.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:26 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2015 7:28 pm
Posts: 7
This is an awesome post
Great info I hope I can put it to use and ice some eyes before the end of the yr


Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 7:40 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 4:40 pm
Posts: 7
Great post here. I printed it all out. Will keep it in my tackle bag for reading material.
(there's 2 #3's lol)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 8:12 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2010 4:03 pm
Posts: 80
Great post..... this post will most certainly save some newbies from a couple disappointing fishless years...ha ha.I remember when i first started fishing Quinte.i would set up my dead stick every once in a while give it the old toe lift to see if it might stir a walleye up lol.....What a difference now lol i love my Buckshots i violently pound my rattles to draw them in then i do quiver 1 to 2 foot lifts that usually gets the job done.If not i do do many things described above.Very good read thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:01 am 
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Guppy

Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2016 8:48 am
Posts: 10
Thank you for taking the time to post all that helpful information. Unfortunately I can only get away once a year to ice fish and will definitely try the techniques listed above. Next weekend will be my first time on the ice in the BOQ provided the ice is safe in the Picton area. I have reached out to the place we have booked in regards to ice conditions however still waiting for a response after a couple of attempts.

Can anyone provide and update on ice conditions in the Picton area? As I live 4 hours away it’s a bit tough to jump in the truck and do a drive by of the area to look myself.

I thank you in advance for any assistance regarding ice conditions in the Picton area.

Thank you


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:32 am 
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Walleye Fingerling

Joined: Tue Dec 23, 2014 11:36 am
Posts: 72
This video illustrates how hard it is to make the walleye bite. Not sure of how these sequences were stitched together, but this person is literally watching the walleye and cannot make it bite most of the time. If she would have done the slow lift shake when the walleye was looking up, my guess it is would have bit. Note also that her standard technique is a double short lift, sort of a pop-pop on the upstroke and then she does short shakes or nods the bait.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2CeSACvfzs

Here is one of the most interesting videos I have seen illustrating how walleyes that are turned off/pressured behave. Note that if the bait does not move, they LOSE interest. It also illustrates some triggers and how walleye react (toward end of video). But it is really interesting what you observe if you use a dead-stick/Judas rig. CONSIDER PUTTING IT ON THE BOTTOM sometimes. Note jaw-jackers are illegal in Ontario, so don't use this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQudPwDa7k8

Finally, here is a video that illustrates how many walleye there may actually be and how few bite. And, some triggers when using a flutter type spoon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkrddlULoFE


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:00 am 
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Walleye Angler

Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:26 pm
Posts: 324
don't mean to change the subject, but JAW JACKERS are legal in Ontario. Because the tech is based on an elastic, rather than a spring release. I just called the MNR again to confirm that things havn't changed and they gave me these details. I have two so wanted to make sure. side note - have yet to catch a fish on them in two years.

Now, as many of you know, another CO may very well provide an opposite opinion, but this is what I got directly from the MNR: 800-667-1940 line.

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lets go fishin!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:06 am 
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Walleye Master
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Joined: Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:44 am
Posts: 2844
Location: Central ,NY
Nice read. I'll add this. I think the worst technique is over thinking it. If you know you have fish in the area, the most important thing is just do what you have always done to put fish top side. Quite often it's the light levels and time of day that make all the difference. I can jig the exact same way at 2pm as I would at 4 pm. There are just certain times that the walleye are ready to feed and it doesn't matter what you do until then. Do what works for you but most importantly be doing it when they are ready to chew.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Goby

Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:58 pm
Posts: 1
Very good post. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 12:16 am 
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Jumbo Perch

Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 12:57 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Brampton
A very excellent post...one thing if I may add...is that one time while using a buddy's camera, I never realized how violent that up and down motion can be...if tipped with a minnow, it can look like a full blown epileptic seizure, it doesn't take very much to make that little critter wiggle. I've found that just moving the rod no more than an inch can make fish very interested in what you are offering.


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