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Quinte Fishing

Fishing Reports for the Bay of Quinte
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:36 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
I just purchased a used tiller motor that I will be using for a kicker on my boat. It has electric start but no power tilt. My question is, as of now all I have done is used the clamps to attach the motor and they are good and tight with a pad lock through the two clamps to keep them from loosening, should I be bolting the motor through the transom as well? the attached pic is of my setup, I've researched this for quite a while now and I see quite a few rigs using kicker brackets off the back of their transoms. Does anyone see a reason why I would need to use a bracket like that? Thanks!

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Last edited by Ginner20 on Wed Sep 12, 2018 7:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:23 am 
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QUINTEFISHING HALL OF FAME MEMBER
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Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2002 7:48 am
Posts: 3765
Location: Hay Bay- BOQ , Kingston
I would bolt the motor to the hull and when you use it, you'll have to lower and raise it, I do that with mine on the 4 stroke motor bracket.

At least you have electric start rather than pulling the cord.

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David Delcloo aka Superdad
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 10:47 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
Ya that's right I don't mind lowering it and raising it manually. I didn't really have the 5k plus to set up a kicker with tilt and all the controls at the helm. I am going to put a steering rod between the big motor and the kicker, and I plan on using my terrova for most of the steering anyways. I think ill plan on installing bolts with lock nuts and washers to be on the safe side. I just wasn't sure it was necessary.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 11:22 am 
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Minnow

Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 34
I have same setup on my impact boat and just use the screws that came on motor for surcuring it to transom i put lock through them just for theft has never come loose just looking at getting steering setup and throttle control for it now . Like to be able to take motor off for different types of fishing sometimes i dont need motor on , if its bolted more work to take it off


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 12:42 pm 
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Jumbo Perch

Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 47
I have a 5 hp that I use as a kicker and in an emergency a motor to get me back home - it is just clamped to the transom with a lock bar so it isn't stolen - I attach a long tiller handle to the motor so I can steer and operate it while sitting up further in the boat - when I fish in places with a lot of weeds I always manually lift the motor up higher so the prop is barely in the water - just low enough to get cooling water through the motor - I don't use the main motor in places like that because of all the weeds - I think that having a second motor available in case the big one doesn't start and you are way out in a lake and it is getting dark and a storm is coming and ..... is a good idea


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:00 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
Ya I agree, that was 50% of my decision to get a kicker motor as I fish Lake O and BOQ mostly is to have a backup motor in case the main motor decided to take the afternoon off (but I run Suzuki and that doesn't happen :lol:) And the other 50% was to keep the hrs down on the big motor and control my speed better and of course fuel economy.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:39 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:32 pm
Posts: 144
If you are not planning on taking it off occasionally, bolting it on is a good idea. When running at speed with the big motor, all it takes is a large wave or wake to bounce it off the transom if only attached with the thumb screws. Use the thumb screws for the lock bar, but use bolts below the thumb screws on the other mounting holes.
Make sure to seal the drilled holes and under the washers with the 3M marine sealant.

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nothing worse can happen for the rest of the day.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 2:03 pm 
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Walleye
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Joined: Thu Nov 02, 2017 6:31 pm
Posts: 159
Location: Toronto / Bancroft
Hi Ginner20 and everyone,

I purchased a used boat last year and it came with a 9.9 4 stroke Yamaha short shaft on a kicker bracket with Manual start, manual tilt.

Because the motor had a short shaft it wouldn't reach into the water far enough if it was mounted on the transom and it would be a problem during rough weather as the prop would keep coming out of the water so the boat came with a kicker bracket already installed so the motor could be lowered down past the transom and into the water to effectively propel the boat and not come out during rough conditions.

After logging a whack of hours in the Bay of Quinte last November and December I decided it was a pain in the a$$ to have a manual start, manual tilt, short shaft motor that required a kicker back bracket to raise up and down. at the beginning of each trip I would have to lower the kicker bracket down then tilt the motor down then pull the cord to start it while standing in the splash well of my boat in November. Then reverse the process at the end of fishing. No thanks! Not anymore !

I purchased a used High thrust kicker motor with a long shaft, electric start, power tilt trim, and trollmaster throttle control and mounted it directly on the transom. I also used to use exclusively my Minn Kota terrova to steer the boat but I added a panther steering bar between my main and axillary motor to make steering the kicker easier as when it is rough the Minn Kota terrova needs some directional assistance from the kicker motor and it saves jumping back and forth from the stern to the console.

I was lucky to find a used kicker with all the conveniences in the same year and brand that I had in a short shaft. It cost me about $600 to upgrade the motor. Money well spent and I'm extremely happy with the new setup.

Cheers Kevin


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 3:07 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
That's not bad trophycraft, that is $600 well spent to get electric start, power tilt and trollmaster and a longer shaft. I also purchased a panther steering bar. I haven't got it installed yet. I cant get trollmaster or a similar products for my 8hp Suzuki kicker unfortunately, if I had of went with a 9.9 I would have been able to. Ill use this set up for a season or two and if I find it a pain I will upgrade at a later date. I have an 18month old young lad and a wife that works almost every weekend so my fishing time is somewhat limited these days. But with any luck I will have a damn good fishing buddy in a few years. 18 months is just a bit young to be in a boat for hrs at a time. Plus he does not like his life jacket one little bit the little bugger.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 7:23 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
Ok new problem. My boat has a separate fuel line hook up right on the splash well for an auxiliary motor. I have a brand new fuel line installed and can’t get it to prime gas by pumping the ball. Would Starcraft have a valve somewhere that I should be looking for. I’ve looked in all the compartments on the splash well and do not see anything. Any suggestions??


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:13 pm 
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Walleye Catcher

Joined: Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:34 am
Posts: 418
Let's get the obvious one out of the way first... is the arrow on the bulb pointing toward the motor?

(This assumes you haven't used that line before.)

As for the 'Bolting' question: YES - THEFT. Make it as difficult as possible.

Hope we haven't missed anything regarding that line; didn't see anywhere that it had been successfully used previously.

Rgds, Wordpecker.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 6:26 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
Arrow is towards the motor. Its a brand new attwood line from marine outfitters in Kingston. It didn't appear to have been used, package was in good shape. I used 2 clamps on each fitting. I think I'm going to get a new fuel line connector for the motor end just to rule that end out and its good to have extra parts.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 6:18 pm 
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Jumbo Perch

Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2010 10:22 am
Posts: 47
Ginner20 wrote:
Arrow is towards the motor. Its a brand new attwood line from marine outfitters in Kingston. It didn't appear to have been used, package was in good shape. I used 2 clamps on each fitting. I think I'm going to get a new fuel line connector for the motor end just to rule that end out and its good to have extra parts.


Take the connector to the engine off and try pumping the ball without this connector and see if you can get gas flowing out of the hose end - also make sure the fuel tank is vented - also blow through the hose to make sure there isn't blocking the hose


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:49 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Sun May 31, 2015 8:33 am
Posts: 120
Location: Harrowsmith
I finally got gas flowing through last night. Just took a little brute force and ignorance. Now when I clip the fuel line onto the motor and pump the ball some gas drips/spray's at the connection to the motor. its not a lot really at all and its only when I pump the ball, not when the motor runs. Is this something that I should be worried about? I'm assuming yes. But you know what they say about assuming.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 7:54 am 
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Walleye

Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2004 3:32 pm
Posts: 144
That almost sounds like there is some dirt on a seal or a faulty connection. They are not supposed to leak anything.

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If you eat a live frog first thing in the morning;
nothing worse can happen for the rest of the day.


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