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Quinte Fishing

Fishing Reports for the Bay of Quinte
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 Post subject: lures
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 1:56 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 7:52 pm
Posts: 183
Fall fishing for walleye, what are the most common and effective lures to troll with? Also, do you have to use planer boards or downriggers when trolling or can you just flatline?


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 Post subject: Reply
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 8:05 pm 
Deep diving cranks from planers should put you on fish....just pay attention to what is happening out there!!

Lance


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:33 am 
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Walleye
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 9:33 am
Posts: 183
Location: Osgoode, ON
Basically, you don't need planer boards and you don't need down riggers. However, these will increase your odds on catching fish.

If you don't have the planer boat mast, try using in-line planer boards. These are very effective.

If you don't have down riggers, use a snap weight system. Adding a 2 oz weight to your line (10-20 feet in front of bait) will drop a shallow diving Husky Jerk or Rogue to about 40 feet.

Lures, you don't need deep driving baits if you are using down riggers or snap weights. I have even found that shallow diving lures on down riggers or snap weights out perform deep diving lures without any weight. The main reason, the shallow baits with added weight have much better depth control.

Here is a pointer to save you money. You could buy the snap weigth system from Off shore tackle. This will run you about 35 bucks. Or you can make you own. Tie in a 2 or 3 way swivel in you line. Add 10- 20 feet of leader and tie this to you lure. On the swivel, find a snap use to put lures on. Put a 1 or 2 oz sinker on it and snap it to the swivel. You can't easily take the weight off while fighting a fish but at least you can get you lure down to catch the fish.

Cheers,

Mike

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Wish I wasn't here...Rather be fishing if you know what I mean


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 Post subject: bottom walkers
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 9:28 am 
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Perch

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:48 pm
Posts: 40
Location: kingston
Would a bottom walker do the job? How about Dipsey Divers...not much posted about these techniques?


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 Post subject: bottom walkers
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 9:28 am 
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Perch

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:48 pm
Posts: 40
Location: kingston
Would a bottom walker do the job? How about Dipsey Divers...not much posted about these techniques?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 2:44 pm 
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Walleye
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 9:33 am
Posts: 183
Location: Osgoode, ON
Dipsy Divers probably work but I haven't used them. Seen a couple of fishing shows filmed on the Bay that have used them with a lot of success.

Bottom walkers would be similiar to snap weights. The main idea being you add weight to get the lure in the strike zone.

Here is the snap weight systems:

http://www.offshoretackle.com/weights.htm

In-line planer boards:

http://www.offshoretackle.com/boards.htm

Cheers,

Mike

_________________
Wish I wasn't here...Rather be fishing if you know what I mean


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 4:47 pm 
Crankbait choice is all about action and profile.I have found that agressive action cranks with a wider profile are more suited to fish suspended in the upper half of the water column. This is probably because these fish are highly active and are searching for food. A more aggressive bait will draw a fish in from a longer distance by sending out low frequency vibrations which are picked up by the lateral line. A fish can sense a bait from a much greater distance by lateral line detection than by sight. Sight takes over as a secondary response. Subtle action baits are better suited to bottom hugging fish because they are more neutral.

If you want to know which baits are subtle and which are aggressive simply put them in the water a feel how much pulse they transmit through the rod. Colour does play a role but it is secondary to these criteria.
Another recomendation is to change the stock bronze trebles to a forged treble for these big fish. I blew a potential first place finish 2 seasons ago by not changing stock trebles.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 5:15 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 7:52 pm
Posts: 183
Thanks for all these great tips. I was wondering, is there a certain make of crankbait to stick with, eg. rapalas?


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 Post subject: lures
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 8:26 pm 
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Perch

Joined: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:48 pm
Posts: 40
Location: kingston
Does anyone use Canadian Wigglers anymore? I was thinking a large chartruese one should work well....awesome action at low speeds. Not a great lure for depth but with some weight it should perform well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 9:35 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 7:52 pm
Posts: 183
Hey Targa2,
Good remark about changing stock hooks. My dad and I were trolling on Thanksgiving weekend around the cement factiry. We were flatlining, when he suddenly got a good hit. He managed to fight it for a bit, but he ended up losing it. We never did see it. But when he reeled his lure in, one of the hooks on the treble snapped off. It was a brand new A.C Shiner!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 9:35 am 
I don't like to slam anyones products but I will say this. I won't buy a Rapala product because they not only use cheap hooks they use very soft split rings. I have had big walleyes open up Rapala split rings and take a hook right off the bait.

Don't buy into the advertisements about "Brands". Any crankbait properly tuned and presented to a fish in the strike zone at the right speed will produce results. Read my last post twice and don't get emotionally attached to product names. I like a Mann's stretch 20 because 1) they work 2) they are perfectly tuned right out of the box. I probably own 100 of them and I have only ever had one that didn't run true. I still change the stock hooks on them though. I like Owner #2's. I you get a walleye to break an Owner hook you just lost the Quinte record.


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 Post subject: Lures
PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 7:38 am 
Interesting to hear the comments regarding Rapalas and the issue with hooks straightening and split rings opening up. My advice would be to perhaps take Targa 2's advice and change both the hooks and split rings if your concerned. Personally, never had an issue with Husky Jerks in that area, although I've had the odd hook bend. Landed monster walleye on them (12 to 15 lb'ers). Don't think I've ever had to tune one of them either, and got a box full. We all have our personal favourites, but personal experience says some types of crankbaits work better than others. My favourites are deep diving Rapala Husky Jerks (CN & BG). BG is no fail. I also use Rapala Tail Dancers, Mann's Stretch 15's and 20's, and Storm Thundercranks. If you are running the snap weight system, as we sometimes do, grab a few Rebel holographic minnows, Bomber Long A's, and Ripplin' Redfins. Look forward to being down there in another couple weeks. Good luck


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 1:45 pm 
Thats true, you will rarely if ever have to tune a rapala. It just ticks me off when I pay $10 and I have to change split rings and hooks.

Personally I think Yo-Zuri baits are the best designed baits on the planet. $14 is steep but those funny grey coloured hooks are incredibly sharp. You can troll a Yo-Zuri at about 10 knots and they still won't turn over.

The husky jerks are great baits but you are limited to 15 feet running depth. Gimme a bait that will dive to 30 feet for Q. Snap weighting is great if you are on a budget but not very precise and very speed dependant.

All these issues are relevant to your needs and budget. If I am being paid to put people an fish I can't afford mistakes. Bent hooks, split ring failures, unrepeatable patterns etc all cost me clients. Even during casual outings I have to watch out for bad habits forming. There are enough uncontrollable variables without screwing up on terminal tackle mistakes. If you are not by nature a perfectionist you will no doubt find my opinions a little extreme. People not so oriented, can cherry pick from the anal retentive ideals I put forth that which suits their style and discard the rest.As a professional it is my job to raise the bar for those moving up the ladder as others did for me.I choose not to be a salesman but to simply tell you my experiences.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2003 8:44 pm 
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Walleye
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 9:18 pm
Posts: 97
Targa2 ,I've been wondering when you were going too add you insight this fall.I find alot of truth in what you speak,Rapalas have long been a staple in my tackle box for eyes and yes they have very sharp but soft hooks and they bend and break easily.I have alot of the old Husky baits,6 inch, the hooks are terrible but the action of the lure is great and its one of my go to lures so I'll also be changing hooks and rings. As far as the snap weight system I agree there is too much depth variation with boat speeds and line lengths. The thought of lures that run 30ft. with no weight is great but I have one question,If these lures throw hard vibrations too reach and maintain these depths and I want a more subtle action for neutral fish at or below these depths,how do I reach these depths without riggers and snap weights,do I go segmented leadcore off boards and if so how much leadcore will in-line boards tow effectively using a 30lb. leader to the board? Looking forward to more great insight from yourself. I find your posts highly informative sir,keep them coming!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 6:49 pm 
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Walleye

Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 7:52 pm
Posts: 183
Thanks for all the advice. I'll try them this weekend. Does anyone know how the fishing is right now? Are the walleyes in the Bay yet?I know that line test strength effects the depth of the lure so I was wondering in the fall season with bigger walleyes, what size of line test should you use and does it have to be a fluorocarbon type line?


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